spectrumled v2.0 - the ultimate variable spectrum lamp!

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I built SpectrumLED back in 2015 (V1)-
A bright 200-watt variable spectrum LED panel.
Very useful-
To be exact, no day since I built the table I did something with my table without having to open it.
However, my needs have changed a bit: most of the time, I don\'t want to change the brightness of my lights, not the spectrum, which is not very easy to do with SpectrumLED (V1)
So I came up with a simple solution: I built a spectrum of 70 W
Balance the LED panel with the perfect spectrum to meet my needs and have a dimmer that only controls the total brightness.
This is a great success!
However, I have noticed that it is very important to make sure that all lights that illuminate the object emit the same color temperature when taking pictures.
This is quite a difficult thing to do with the spectral led (V1)
Considering the number of times I change the brightness without changing the spectrum. . .
I\'m not happy with this joint arm.
The result is not as good as I thought: it is either too loose and shaking or too hard to change from position to position.
This may not sound like a big problem, but because it\'s not-
Weighted, I have to tighten the tilt Bolt (the base)
Very tight.
Other arms are not so easy to adjust.
As you can see, the combination of the two is not as good as I thought, so my first thought is to replace the spectral led (V1)
With another pronunciation spectrum
I will make a balanced LED panel which will give me what I want.
However, I still want to change the choice of the spectrum, I did not go so far, just went so far, so in the guidance of these 21 steps, I will show you how I made SpectrumLED v2. 0 -
The most excessive in the world
80 W variable spectrum LED light.
I will also show you how to make a wooden hinged arm with 5 degrees of freedom, which means it rotates and tilts in two different places, as well as a telescope.
The arm is balanced by a unique counterweight, providing an incredible smooth tilt action (
There will be more later :). -(
Watch YouTube video: a link to the mobile audience! )-
SpectrumLED features: variable spectrum can be easily realized by switching! ✓ Uses a Non-Flashing dimmer (
Better for camera, not a headache, easier than CC)
Energy saving light output with 8X10 w led (
Equivalent ~ 500 W incandescent lamp)
With a balanced hinged and telescopic Wood arm (
5 degrees of freedom)
, And can be adjusted to different locations faster!
Almost every part of my room (
For example, in this video, even under my desk)
It can be built with fairly basic tools, and the production cost is very low (
* Cough *, perfect for your budget! )
$6 looks great!
I will give away the instructures membership free of charge to members who make their own SpectrumLED v2. 0.
Will you be the first?
Let\'s start!
As you can see above, this is the plan I made.
It took me more than two weeks to come up with the design because every time I thought I had finished the design I had another idea for improvement.
I only made some changes while building and I will explain later.
Here are three major mechanical differences (
Other steps are explained in other steps/Introductions)
Between the two, and the mechanics of the hinged arm I built for the 70 w spectrum --
Balance LED panel: Weight-
I added a weight (
Transformer rescued from microwave oven)
Because I didn\'t want to tighten the bolts too tightly, this caused some problems.
It can also be easier to switch from position to position, reduce the pressure on the stand, and so on.
Also, if a Bolt fails due to wood shrinkage or any other reason, the light will slowly fall on my desk and will not wake me up in the middle of the night.
How do I know? . .
Adjustable/telescopic bracket-
I don\'t think I need a big arm to install it: most of the time I don\'t need to get the light to a long distance, so I fold them up and they get a bit out of the way.
In addition, the three exposition fragments are not enough, and the four fragments are awkward to use.
I can also turn it, so I don\'t need to do an extra rotation mechanism for the top.
The telescopic arm rotation I salvaged from the fan holder also made it easier to connect to the counterweight.
No adjustable fan holder?
The adjustable handle on the mop stick, the selfie stick and the legs of the old tripod are all good options.
Plywood disc-
I decided to replace the two intersecting Wood with two thick plywood discs, something I used for the hinged spectrum --
Balanced LED panel.
The disk eliminates the jitter of 90% (
Large surface area of thick and hard plywood)
The most important thing is to provide a fixed amount of friction.
They will also Polish themselves over time, which means they may feel almost like glass in a few weeks.
After seeing how good these jobs are, I\'m also thinking about doing this to the tilt mechanism!
Thanks to Matthias Wandel for your thoughts. And. . .
Difference in number of LED-
I have a lot of decisions to make, but in short, there are 3 Warm LED and 5 cool LED that I can have a fairly large light source with each spectrum, in addition to the option to get the exact same spectrum, or cooler or warmer than the 70 w spectrum --
The main reason is to balance the LED panel. . . .
As you can see in the picture, they also draw the maximum electrical flow that my dimmer can provide and fit perfectly on the radiator of my choice.
Below is a list of everything you need to complete this project.
These parts are either what I already have (
Find/Salvage/manufacture for another project. . . ), or bought (on eBay).
If you don\'t see what you think should be here, or want to know more about the specific tools/parts I use, feel free to ask in the comments.
I built it for $6 because I already have almost all the parts, but if you\'re going to buy everything (tools excluded)
I think it will cost you $50.
Hardware and materials :-
Chemicals and adhesives :-Tools (+Attachments):-
Subjects: Woodworking, electronics, LED, lighting (electric/electric tools)
And, of course, a little bit of physics! )
Recommended Safety equipment: ear mask, respirator, safety goggles, gloves, ventilation100 HOURS (aka 2+ months)!
Difficulty: quite difficult, you need a large active radiator with enough surface area for all the LED and have a built-in it fan.
This can be salvaged from an old desktop computer.
I would also recommend adding 2 pipe radiators (
I Rescued My from the old ATX power supply)
Since you will never have too much passive cooling, it sticks to the side of the main radiator.
I stuck the radiator together with a hot paste and added a few clips.
Note: If you see another radiator in any picture, please ignore it.
I think I need another radiator.
I stick to the main radiator)
But eventually it was removed.
Tasks that take only a few minutes to complete may take half an hour to fix when jumping out of date, so after making sure that none of the LEDs are defective, I make sure to arrange them in a way that ensures no (-)
Side center of all LED (inward).
This will make the welding process easier in the future.
I cleaned the radiator with an alcohol swab and then put a drop of pea-sized hot paste on the back (aluminum)
Side of each LED and squeeze it tightly onto the radiator.
Now, as I made the Instructure, I realized how I should arrange them (a bit)
Better, but I don\'t think it\'s important because I plan to add a diffuser anyway.
After some brainstorming, I came up with an idea to drill holes in the radiator and screw them on the rack holder, which is screwed to the hinged arm.
I drilled two holes on each side of the radiator and screwed it with small wooden screws.
There are even some holes on the radiator that match the holes on the shelf stand, so this saves me some time.
Lucky coincidence!
The other two radiators that stick to the main radiator also make it harder, increase the strength and make it easier to install.
You may remember that I wanted to tilt the radiator so I clipped 3 pieces of wood on my homemade wooden vise and cut them into the size I wanted.
Later, I used some CA glue to glue them because it was a very fast curing adhesive.
I then drove with four small screws and attached the wood to the rack holder.
Don\'t forget to drill the guide hole!
Unlike my first illuminated light, the radiator is connected to the illuminated arm in a way that helps better heat dissipation.
Hot Air wants to rise, so it is beneficial to open the radiator at the top!
I need to connect the telescopic bracket to the tilt mechanism I plan to build.
It needs to be strong.
I cut the two pieces of wood to a little over 8 cm, and then held them tightly together with the vise and the bar clip.
I drill holes in the end head with a 25mm shovel bit, as shown in the figure (
Sorry, bad lighting.
I have to use my flash because I still have to unplug the LED panel that clarifies the spectrum balance because it takes a lot of power to operate like this!
Don\'t worry, this problem has been fixed with magic called extension cord; )
I didn\'t do this before drilling, so now is the time: I drilled two holes and fixed two pieces of wood together with two screws.
I did this in the vise so I don\'t have to waste time after trying to align the parts correctly. Well. . .
Change it to seven screws, because I added two more screws to the first two, and then came up with the idea of using two small screws as a gasket for the adjustable rod, then added another screw it works the same way as the pin on the motor shaft.
I can pick up my table with this!
After doing all this, I decided to tighten the screws more.
It was a big mistake because the wood cracked before I blinked. So. . .
I squeezed some CA glue in the hole and then held it tightly in my metal vise.
I hope this will last (
However, cracks are just bad from an aesthetic point of view)
About a week later: Wow!
Unlike what I thought, it still didn\'t fail!
Connect the first and second parts together.
This makes the third part, in a way even better than what I did for the plan!
First, I screwed a small piece of wood to the wood attached to the rack holder (in part 1).
It will serve as another piece of gasket required for the tilting mechanism.
I cut another small piece of wood for the upper half of the tilt mechanism.
After that, I cut two narrow pieces of wood into 9 cm long.
Then I drilled a hole in all three parts and found a bolt large enough.
I am trying to connect the wood used for the upper part to the \"head \"(
Also known as radiator installation)
With the screws but the screws were stripped off so I used a different hole to assemble (almost! )
Everything is together
I added a few washers because the screws are a bit too long and I don\'t want it to come out from the other side.
In order to finish it, I opened four more screws to attach 9 cm small pieces of wood to the wood attached to the telescopic bracket.
Don\'t forget to drill the guide hole! :)
This is probably a rather confusing reading (and to write! )
So be sure to see the picture!
I found a large piece of wood and I used it for both the homemade wooden vise and also to clarify the spectrum --
Balanced LED panel.
I cut it into two pieces with my saw, all 10 pieces.
5 cm Longjing connects the two screws together with two large screws and then marks where the holes are drilled (
According to the hole at the bottom of the telescopic bracket)
, Drill pilot holes, drive with metal screws.
Did I tell you how much I want an impact driver?
The part screwed on the telescopic bracket is attached to the main inclined part of the hinged arm.
It must be very powerful because (Lever/torque? *)
This is applied to such a small surface area from the angle of the head weight.
I first glued two long pieces of wood together with wood.
I used the same piece of wood on the hinged arm of the spectral balance LED panel, and since I glued the two pieces of wood together, it should be very strong.
To make sure these parts are properly bonded, I have added many clips.
Should this be called a bar or a beam?
Maybe something else?
* Sorry for not learning this in the physics class I don\'t go :)
After the glue dried up at the big bar, I clipped it in the wooden section at the bottom of the telescopic bracket so that it wouldn\'t move.
I put two rack brackets on the top, two on the bottom, marked with a pencil where to drill the hole, and finally drilled the guide hole.
To help drive the big screws, I dip them into Vaseline, which helps to lubricate them and reduce friction.
I decided to use the 10mm bolt because during the experiment I found out how amazing the transport Bolt was and I had a bolt with a diameter of 10mm.
Also, if I don\'t like them in the end, there are a few other 10mm bolts in my collection, which means I can easily replace it if needed.
I clamp the main structure tightly on the table of my drill press and drill holes on the large bar with a 10mm drill bit.
Then I found two more pieces of mountain wool ball wood, clipped them together and drilled a 10mm hole on it.
It\'s a cake to assemble!
I should add that the bolts have been tightened so I have the minimum amount of friction required to tilt the arm.
It takes a little force to start moving it, but the arm stops when I stop pushing (
See the video though I haven\'t had a chance to adjust it to the perfect amount yet).
Are you a little confused?
Don\'t worry!
Here\'s a quick video of what I did before this step: What is the weight of the link to the mobile audience?
I decided to use a microwave transformer for weight distribution.
Yes, a microwave transformer.
Are you saying you don\'t know I\'m collecting this? :)
The one I chose weighed just over 3 kg and from my experiment, placed it about 30 cm from the tilt mechanism Bolt and worked well.
I quickly cut two pieces of wood into 12 pieces.
5 cm long, screw onto the transformer.
When the entire hinged arm was tightly clipped to my wooden vise, I clipped the transformer tightly to the stick, drilled two pilot holes and opened some screws.
I cut off the rest of the spare wood.
Some more ideas: you can build a track that lets the transformer slide over the stick in order to make more adjustments.
I think I will put a knob on the main tilt mechanismway simpler!
I can use one (or add)
The pneumatic/hydraulic pistons of the future, though I\'m not sure if my pistons are strong enough.
As I have already mentioned, I will install SpectrumLED (V2. 0, of course! )
On the shelf next to my desk
This is where SpectrumLED V1 has been installed in the past few months (
See the last step for a picture of this). . .
When I cut the two pieces connecting the main tilt mechanism and the rotating base, I am not sure how long it will take to make it, so I cut it too long for safety.
I did a little experiment with the bracket and thought it would look good for me to have the bolts of the main tilt mechanism in about 25 cm of the position on the shelf.
Since the rotating mechanism will be several centimeters high, I am even able to cut the pieces shorter than I have marked.
I first installed a 89mm hole saw on my drill chuck.
I drilled four holes in the Baltic Sea where I\'m pretty sure.
Give me four plates.
To prevent tearing, I recommend drilling from both sides.
Any tear I end up with is easy to remove with a sharp knife.
The reason I made four discs was because I didn\'t have thick plywood.
I stick the two discs together, make two thicker discs with wood glue and CA glue and clamp them all together while using the drill bit to keep them aligned as much as possible.
Here are some more tricks to drill holes with a big hole saw: but not exactly what I drew for this plan, I screwed the rest of the piece I had off the stick (
Remember the weight part? )
In a circle, a hole was drilled with a 6mm drill bit.
Then I repeated the exact same process with another piece of wood (
The one that was caught installing SpectrumLED v2 on my shelf. 0)
Then a bolt and a nut were found.
Remember the two pieces connecting the main tilt mechanism and the rotating base?
I cut part of it into the length I want and attach them to the rotating base with 4 screws.
I am a bit confused in the drilling section of this step, but there is no need to bore you with details :)
I cut off the rest of the spare wood. DONE!
With articulated arms. . .
What is the most effective way to turn on and off different LEDs?
From right to left: Switch 1: turn on 1 Warm LED Switch 2: Turn on 2 warm LED switches 3: turn on 2 cool LED switches 4: turn on 2 cool LED switches 5: do you want to open an LED?
Turn on Switch 1.
Do you want to drive two LEDs?
Turn off switch 1 and turn on Switch 2.
Do you want to drive three LEDs?
Switch on Switch 1 and switch 2.
Since these switches are recycled from old electronics, I make sure to test whether they work with the continuous function on the multimeter.
Welding: I found a thick speaker wire to splice the insulation and weld it to \"0 \"(aka \"off\")
Side of each switch.
This is not easy to do, so if you are not going to put them in the enclosure, I would suggest doing this on the PCB.
This will save you a lot of time.
I remove the insulation from more speaker wires, hold the tank and Weld to the reverse side of the LED.
See why glue them this way, making the welding process easier?
Welding makes me sick so I weld outside.
Unfortunately, it\'s almost cold outside so don\'t judge me with my solder joints; )
I decided to install a plastic case for the switch.
I used this container for about 40 years. It was produced by Kodak.
I think it\'s used for things related to movies. you tell me!
About 1 switch per. 9cm by 1.
3 cm, so by connecting them together, I need to cut a hole of about 1. 9cm by 7. 2cm.
I marked it with calipers and cut it off with a tool knife.
A hot knife will save me a lot of time. . .
I also cut a small slot so that when the box is on par with the surface I made in step 8, the wires pass through.
First of all, I welded a long wire on the front of the two warm LEDs and welded another different long wire on the front of the other warm LED.
Then I found 3 more long wires.
I welded the first one to two cool LED, the second one to two cool LED, the third one to one cool LED.
Help boldly?
I weld the switch from right to left, similar to what I showed in the previous step: Switch 1: turn on 1 Warm LED Switch 2: switch on 2 warm LED switch LED 3: switch on 2 cool LED 4: switch on 2 cool LED 5: turn on 1 cool LED as I have clear spectrum-
I tested the balanced LED and outside. . . IT WORKED! So. . .
I turn on my heat-
Glue gun and stick the switch box on the stick.
Note: If you want to know, because I don\'t provide a schematic, when all the switches are in the \"on\" position, it\'s as if I \'ve welded all the LED in parallel.
When I don\'t extend the telescopic arm to the maximum length, the wire falls to the side.
If you have an idea of making some sort of dispenser that can hold them, I \'d love to hear it!
I don\'t know. I don\'t know.
What I want to say, what is it.
Nike Jordan I ̶ Nike Jordan w Nike Jordan a ̶ n ̶ t Nike Jordan t ̶ o Nike Jordan m ̶ a Nike Jordan k ̶ e Nike Jordan t ̶ h ̶ e Nike Jordan f Nike Jordan a ̶ n nike Jordan t ̶ u ̶ r ̶ n Nike Jordan o ̶ n ̶/̶ o ̶ f Nike Jordan w Nike Jordan I ̶ t ̶ h Nike Jordan t ̶ h ̶ e ̶ r ̶ m ̶ o ̶ s ̶ t ̶ a ̶ t ̶ s ̶, nike Jordan a ̶ n ̶ d Nike Jordan I ̶ f Nike Jordan I ̶ d ̶ o Nike Jordan d ̶ e ̶ c ̶ I ̶ d ̶ e Nike Jordan t ̶ o ̶ d. o. t. h. a. t, nike Jordan y ̶ o ̶ u Nike Jordan s Nike Jordan h ̶ o ̶ u Nike Jordan l Nike Jordan d Nike Jordan s ̶ e Nike Jordan I ̶ t Nike Jordan I ̶ n Nike Jordan nike Jordan f ̶ u ̶ t ̶ u ̶ r ̶ e Nike Jordan I ̶ n ̶ s ̶ t ̶ r ̶ u Nike Jordan c ̶ t ̶ a ̶ B ̶ l ̶ e Nike Jordan.
I want to know what it is and what it is
̶ B ̶ a ̶ l ̶ a ̶ n ̶ c ̶ e ̶ d Nike Jordan L ̶ E ̶ D Nike Jordan p ̶ a ̶ n ̶ e ̶ l Nike Jordan.
I don\'t know what it is, what it is, what it is.
Edit: I have updated (
Add more pictures)
A few days after uploading, if you want to know what\'s wrong with the fan, I changed the fan from the main radiator to a fan that rotates faster and runs quieter!
When I did, I also added a small fan to cool the dimmer because it was not enough to stick another radiator. . .
How silent they are, it\'s amazing!
I first connect the two speaker wires to the output of the 12 v power supply and then connect it to the input of the high speed dimmer.
I then connect the positive and negative wires from the switch box to the output of the dimmer, and after I make sure everything works, I stick the dimmer to the big stick next to the switch box!
About \"lighting the LED in a few seconds \"(
I get these types of comments a lot)
: These LEDs are undervalued and kept at cool temperatures (
Also known as resistance should not increase all the time to the point where they committed suicide).
I don\'t understand why I should use expensive constant voltage (
Or a constant current drive? )
When I can use a simple dimmer.
Complete!
Click show more to see more pictures, below is the video if you haven\'t seen it yet.
As you know, it\'s a huge project and it\'s instructive, so I\'m sure I missed out on information about something you might be interested in.
Feel free to comment if you have any questions or would like to know more! :)
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What special features would you add if you made your own SpectrumLED? -
More diy led photo panels (
Perfect budget! )